If your Hikari is not making sound, light, or either make sure of the following:
All points are soldered cleanly and touching the pads. (this is the most common problem)
The battery is attached correctly.
No components were overheated or burnt up during assembly.
All pieces where orientation matter are correctly oriented. Including the battery, the electrolytic capacitor (C3) , the LED, the transistors, speaker, 4093 IC.
Often when assembling Hikari and encountering silence it will be discovered that the photocell , or another component was not making solid contact with the board.
If all else fails, and you cannot make your Hikari come to life, please contact us with pictures of your work & what the issue seems to be.
We'll do everything we can to help !
Add the volume pot & limiting resistor.
Add the volume put just like the tune pot, this one is 5k, and is green in most kits. After soldering it in place, cut the 100 ohm resistor from earlier so that it can jumper between the corner pin of the 4093 and the last pin of the volume pot as pictured. The photo above is from after the TUNE pot & resistor are soldered in place.
Add the 4093 IC.
Make sure to orient in the same way as pictured on the circuit board, with the notched side away from the button. Take your time soldering the pins as doing them all at once can overheat and damage the IC.
Add the faceplate & acorn cap nuts, and adjust the hex nuts so the face is level, and nuts are tight against the faceplate.
*note* with C1 & C2 orientation doesn't matter, with C3 make sure the negative leg is towards the inside of the board, as pictured. Also, attach C3 so it lies down flat at an angle to leave space for the LED.
Loosely put on the (4) Hex nuts.
Attach the speaker & adhesive foam back.
Attach the speaker using the wire cut off from the speaker. Attach the wires as shown. Test your Hikari out by putting in the 9V battery & pressing the button. Assuming you hear sound, add the foam back while passing through the battery wires. Press down the foam around the edges of the board, for a clean finish. If you do not hear sound, consult the bottom of the page!
Attach the speaker & battery to the foam.
We use hot glue to quickly and neatly adhere the speaker and battery clip to the back of the PCB, so they sit flat. This isn't necessary but definitely makes for a more solid Hikari.
Attach the 9V battery clip
Cut the lengths of wire from the clip to about the length of the holder itself. 1.5" is fine, as it will make the clip sit flat when fully assembled. Strip the leads and solder them in place as shown, with the ground (black) adjacent to the button. You can use the cutoff wire shortly to connect the speaker if your speaker did come with leads attached.
Using the (4) 6/32 machine screws and a screwdriver or drill, attach the backplate through the standoffs into the circuit board. Tighten them down until the acrylic tube standoffs won't spin freely. This should leave enough room for a 9V battery to be inserted & removed without adjusting the screws.
Start with the resistors, they are:
R1- 470 ohm
R3- 100 ohm
R4- 100 ohm
*note* orientation doesn't matter with these & there is an extra resistor that you will use later- this is also a 100 ohm resistor
Add the tune potentiometer.
It's labelled 100k or in most kits, the black-base potentiometer. You can bend the two large legs inward to make the pot snap into place easier.
Now for the transistors.
BC139 attaches as shown with the metal side facing down. BC547 needs to be oriented as shown, and pushed in to the same height as the headphone jack before being soldered in place. Take care with handling these as transistors are sensitive to static electricity.
Attach the photocell.
Orientation doesn't matter, just be sure the connections are made on the small pads, and that the photocell sits low to the surface as pictured.
Add the LED.
Insert the LED with the short leg towards the inside of the circuit board. Solder it in place so it is quite close to the board (as pictured)
Clip the excess leads of all components.
instructions for assembling hikari 2.0 kits
Add the button.
Make sure the "D" shape of the button matches the silkscreen on the circuit board. That is, flat side up.
We find it helpful to solder one pad, reheat and orient the button so it seats comfortably, what ever works for you !
Test & Enjoy your new Hikari!
Up next, the headphone jack.
This step is a little peculiar, but insert 4 pins of the headphone jack and nudge the pin by the output towards it's hole in the circuit board. Before soldering make sure all 5 pins connect through the board.